When you turn the ignition key to start your car and absolutely nothing happens, you’re first thought is always of a dead battery. Something has happened to drain it such as leaving a light on. But if you pop the hood you might find that the culprit is a greasy, dirty, or corroded battery terminal.
Table of Contents:
Battery Terminal Corrosion
The problem arises more often if you don’t drive your car regularly. When the engine is not running and the battery is sitting, the terminals oxidize at a faster rate. This means you need to check the battery terminals more often for corrosion. Corrosion appears as a white, ashy deposit around one or both battery posts. Sometimes there is also a bit of color mixed in. These deposits are the result of one of several possible chemical exchanges involving vapors and the battery post.
How to Clean Car Battery Terminals
Supplies:
- A combination tool – battery post brush and battery clamp brush, obtainable at any auto parts store. These generally come in two designs, one employing wire brush elements and the other using two cutting blades and a reamer. Though old pros prefer the latter, either will work and either is suitable if you’re not cleaning battery posts on a daily basis.
- Locking pliers (vice grips).
- Toothbrush.
- Baking soda.
- Water.
- Clean, lint-free cloth.
- Wrench.
- Grease or petroleum jelly.
Directions:
- Remove the battery cables from the battery terminals by loosening the nut on each cable clamp. Once they are loose, always remove the cable clamp from the negative terminal first. It’s marked with a minus (-) sign; the positive terminal has a plus (+) sign. Reverse the procedure, positive first, negative second, when replacing the cables. The cable may not come off easily. You will have to wiggle it and lift it upward until the clamp comes off the terminal post. Sometimes, especially if there is a lot of corrosion, you may need the assistance of pair of locking pliers. Be careful not to short any tools you use against the car when they’re in contact with the battery.
- Examine the battery cables and clamps for excess wear or corrosion. Should damage appear extensive, replace the cables and clamps to avoid future problems.
- Check the battery case for cracks and the terminals for damage. If you find either, replace the battery.
- Secure the loose cables so that they don’t accidentally flop back onto the terminals.
- Pour some baking soda directly onto the posts.
- Dip a toothbrush in water and use it to scrub the baking soda into the terminal posts and cable clamps. Skin and eye protection is recommended.
- If the toothbrush isn’t doing the job, Use a battery terminal cleaner brush on it. Also shine up the insides of the cable clamps by using the clamp cleaner that usually comes attached to the terminal brush or use a plain, soap-free steel wool pad.
- Dry everything off with a clean, disposable, lint-free rag.
- Smear grease or petroleum jelly on the posts to slow down the formation of corrosive deposits. Cover all exposed metal surfaces on the battery posts, battery cables, and clamps.
- Replace the positive clamp first and then replace the negative clamp. Tighten them down with the proper sized wrench.
- Replace the rubber boot or plastic shield that covers the positive terminal. If you don’t have one, go and buy some from your local auto parts store.
Penny on Battery Post?
We have heard of a trick of using pennies placed on top of the battery, one held in place with a drop of oil near each post. The copper supposedly draws corrosion off the battery terminals. We don’t know whether this works or not – if you know, please let your fellow readers know using the comments at the bottom of this page.
{ 50 comments… read them below or add one }
My mechanic told me this one. Take a can of Coke and poor a small amount on the corroded terminal. It will literally dissolve the corrosion. finish by making sure the connection to the terminal is tight.
Wear eye protection and rubber gloves. Remove the battery negative terminal clamp and then the positive terminal clamp. Apply a mixture of one once of baking soda and four ounces of water to the terminals and clamps. Let stand for 10 minutes. Rinse off and then brush the surfaces with a wire brush (available at any auto parts store). Use a small knife to clean those tight areas. Install battery post corrosion prevention disks (also available at all auto parts stores) or apply a small amount of silicone grease to all surfaces of the terminal and clamp. Reinstall the positive battery clamp first and then the negative. To avoid unexpected breakdowns, follow this procedure at least once every two years. Now you are good for another two years.
If your stuck somewhere and limited tools or cleaning products are available. Try plain old coffee it works quite well. Either dip and soak the cables in a cup of joe, or pour it directly on the terminals. A little water to wash the mess away, and your ready to roll.
If you car battery or any thing with rust on the car is dirty and hard to clean just dump some coke(soda) on to it. It will bring it right off. True stuff cops use it to get blood of sidewalks. Papsi does not do it has to be coke.
Remove the battery post from battery,on top post batteries take a foam cup, baking soda, and water. mix water and baking soda in cup and dip and let soak, dampen the posts with water and pour baking soda on posts. Let it work for five minutes and rinse with clean water, replace terminals on post when clean and tighten. Side post are done the same way except the corosion will get between the insulator (red or black rubber boot) and the terminal, little more time to clean.
Regarding the ‘penny on the battery’ idea, Copper does not corrode as easily as the lead does. This makes the idea of a penny kind of silly. Not to mention the fact that defacing US Currency is against the law. A better way to prevent the corrosion is much simpler than using a Petroleum based substance, Enamel Paint. Not a spray paint, but Modelers Enamel Paint. I prefer black and red, myself, and I clean the terminals and posts, however on most modern cars the posts are on the side and do not protrude from the battery. This brings up a new dilemma, that of protecting the side post type batteries and terminals from corrosion. For this there are more than one solution. The first involves the terminal ends that are supplied with the vehicle that cover the side posts of the batteries. I simply put a rubber washer with a hole in the center for the battery bolt to pass through, not thick rubber just a thin piece of rubber that will extend past the stock terminal ends. The purpose being to keep any and all moisture laden air from the lead posts. The other option is for those with the replacement terminal leads that are usually zinc coated steel or in some cases a lead mixture. For these I use the enamel to paint the terminals prior to assembly and then touch up when on the battery. It works very well. As for the cleaning, I find a small but stiff wire brush, that looks like a toothbrush, to be very useful, and I use only the steel, as the brass ones will not clean well. Chemical cleaners leave a residue that is not conducive for the adherence of the enamel. Well, thats all I have , be safe and well.
The really easy way to do it is to use a kettle of boiling water and slowly pour it over the terminals. Do it one at a time and make sure you dont get water shorting the two posts.
Yes it lazy, yes it easy and yes it works.
Use vaseline to cover terminals when you have finished. job done!
I use Baking Soda mixed with water in a Plastic Cup, a Heaping table spoon of Soda in 6-8oz of water, Important, remove Negative cable first then the Positive cable & dip them in the Baking Soda Water solution including a couple of inches of the cable, the cable wire gets corroded too, until the Bubbling stops. Then with another Fresh Baking Soda mixed with water wash the whole Battery with a brush, (the mixture won’t hurt the battery) & let it run down to the Metal battery holder that’s supporting the Battery, I had to change one once because it was so corroded. I’ve used regular Grease to coat the Terminals & Posts but found out that The Blue Marine Wheel Bearing Grease ( available at Pep Boys etc is Very Water resistant & Durable), works Much better,
If you do nothing at all at least take a Napkin & clean a Finger sized straight line between the two Posts to Break the Electric connection between the two Posts, The Dirt will connect the Negative & Positive Posts together & Cause a High Resistance Short & Slowly Drain your Battery.
Also a slow 3-5 Amp charger put on your Battery every 3-6 months or so for 12-24 hours will make your Battery last longer & if you’re a Do-It-Yourself & don’t want to be stuck with a Dead Battery, (these new Starters that take less Amps to turn over don’t give you the warning like the old ones & a car that started OK yesterday can be dead in the water today), after a few years buy a new Battery on sale & stick it in the Garage for that time that you don’t want to be late for work or when the Family’s in the car ready for Mom’s Thanksgiving Dinner & you have to unload the car, call your Brother to take you to one of those 24/7 Auto parts places that will charge you Top Dollar for a Battery that you wouldn’t normally buy..!!
Water in a spray bottle with jet adjustable spray. You may have one already. Simple as that. Does the job.
Since this is basically what I do for a living, I do have my take on this.
Always wear proper protective gear! I wear safety glasses and use nitrile gloves any time I work on a battery. Keep in mind that the acid will eat through clothes as well. Avoid all sparks and open flames when dealing with batteries as they produce hydrogen sulfide gas when they go bad and it is very explosive. You do NOT want a battery to explode on you.
If the terminal has a build up of acid on it, well the terminal and use a paper towel to remove as much of the acid as possible first. Pour baking soda on it, wet it down just enough for it to start bubbling. When it stops add a little more water. Continue until it quits reacting. (Note: Coke will clean the metal as it contains phosphoric acid but you want something other than an acid to counter and acid.
Loosen the cables. IF they are really tight, use a little WD-40. Remove the terminals, negative then positive, and use a battery terminal cleaner to clean the terminal and connector. IF it is a side terminal battery, you can use any wire brush to clean the outside. I prefer not to use the bladed cleaners as they are not that easy to use and if you remove too much off the terminal, the connector will not fit tight. Use WD-40 to clean any exterior dirt and grease off the connectors. Replace the cables in reverse order, tighten them and you should be good to go. I do not advocate the use of greases on the terminals as I have had several cases of cars not starting where all I had to do was clean the ‘anti-corrosive’ grease off them and they started.
Something to keep in mind, try to use a battery minder when doing this. Some vehicles when they lose the power will cause you problems. Alarms will go off thinking they are being tampered with. Some anti-theft radios will require you to put in a code before they are useable again. On some cars, the computer temporarily forgets who it is and you have to run the car basically with your foot on the gas for around 15 minutes before it resets itself. Some of the newer cars are even worse. There is a new high-end car (which will remain nameless) that if the computer is lost takes almost three days to reset. Good luck.
corroded terminals?
Grab a coke, diet or regular. Drink half.
pour the rest on the terminals slowly.
Like peroxide on a cut it fizzes all up and ‘voila’
corrosion all cleaned up. rinse with water. tell your freinds.
Go to the car parts store and buy a set of the little green and red felt washers. Lube them up with the glop that comes with them and install them around the posts under each clamp. Voila. No more corrosion, ever and no more need to clean.
Several of the posts mentioned disconnecting the negative cable before the positive. THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. The reason for this is that if you try removing the positive cable first and your wrench comes in contact with the car and positive post at the same time you will have a direct short to ground that can cause burns, sparks and generally mess up you day.
After cleaning the battery terminals mix a quanity of soap powder in to cream with hot water, pour paste over terminals and as long as it is not washed off it will stop the corrosion.
Never had problems for 12 months.
Wet cell batteries will always cause acid and its fumes to cause corrosion to the terminals, cables, metal tie down bar, and “J” bolts. This is an accepted fact with wet cell batteries.I have owned an OPTIMA battery for 2 years now without encountering the problems related to the wet cell. When the time come to replace the wet cells on our 2 other vehicles I will be shopping for one similar to the OPTIMA. The extra cost is well worth not going through the trouble of maintaining a wet cell!
Pennies:
Pennies are no longer made of copper. The US mint began using other metals for pennies sometime back in the sixties or earlier.If you have a “wheat penny” it is more likely to be made of copper. Wheat pennies have two stalks of wheat on the back of the penny instead of the lincoln memorial.
Be careful to avoid any washing fluid damaging the driveway or garage floor. The fluid may corrode the surface as it did when I cleaned the terminals.
i put a grocery bag then some newspaper underneath my car when I cleaned my posts. I do recommend safety goggles and gloves (what type, dunno) as my hands are itchy now from minimal contamination. I used a baking soda/water product and a toothbrush for most of the work. I couldn’t get the terminal cables off, but after reading about the order of negative and positive, I am glad. Also, WD 40 sounds good for help. Sounds like the mechanic knows of which he speaks, so I won’t use any grease on the posts. Thanks for all the input!
Just a reminder to those in the know: the use of the wire type cleaning tools should be avoided as it hastens the battery life due to metal getting into the soft lead terminals. Automotive stores sell these cheap or give them away as they know you will soon be back to buy a battery once these are used.
Stick with the backing soda and toothbrush (plastic bristles)for cleaning.
There are many good tips here and also a few it would be best avoiding.
I will provide some explanation to help with understanding the “why’s?” so you can make informed decisions about these yourself.
1) If it is an option it is recommended use baking soda and hot water to clean the corrosive buildup on your battery posts rather than plain water, coke, or coffee:
Why? Just using plain hot water, coke, or coffee to clean the acidic buildup on the battery posts will create a highly corrosive acidic solution that will run all over various parts in your engine compartment, driveway, and garage floor. This will cause unnecessary corrosion on anything it touches. Including; Etching paint speeding corrosion of metal parts, softening rubber possibly causing failures, removing the finished surface of concrete or asphalt, not to mention the obvious skin, eye, and clothing concerns. The baking soda & water is a basic (low pH) solution, which will actually neutralize the acidic (high pH) solution preventing this corrosion. The hot water simply acts as a catalyst to speed the cleaning and the reaction. It is still advisable to rinse the area with clean water once you are complete.
2) It is best to use non abrasive brushes to clean and service your battery posts and clamps.
Why? Wire brushes and reamers will remove too much of the soft lead material material used to make battery posts and most post clamps. Once too much material has been removed the clamp will not tighten properly on the battery post causing a loose connection and compounding your problems. If these parts cannot be cleaned successfully using non abrasive methods use caution when employing any abrasives being aware that the lead material can be removed or badly damaged easily with cutting tools or abrasives.
3) Remove the negative battery terminal first then remove the positive battery terminal.
Why? For safety reasons it is advised to remove cable leads in this manner. A charging battery creates a dangerously explosive Hydrogen gas which can be ignited by an electrical spark (arc) which may cause the battery to explode spraying the hydrochloric acid contents causing severe flash burns and acid burns to skin and eyes. Since it is far less likely to get arcing from removing a negative terminal than a positive terminal, this is the preferred method. Once the negative terminal is removed and away the from the battery the circuit is broken and the positive will not arc.
Note: This is remote but it does happen, it is not meant to scare you from performing this simply to inform you to insure you take the required precautions which will allow you to proceed worry free.
Happy Cleaning!
The baking soda method is the safest. The penny thing is a waste of time. I did like the comment about ‘Defacing US Currency is against the law.’ I’m assuming that was not a serious comment. I sort of doubt the Secret Service will throw you in jail for attempting to use a penny to keep your battery from gunking up. Coke works, but remember, if the stuff burns off corrosion, it can burn off other stuff.
Here’s a weird one for you: My terminals had no visible deposits around them yet my car would start strongly sometimes and then not start until the 2nd or 3rd try other times. Is it possible to have no obvious deposits, yet have enough to affect starting? I was in a hurry to get to the post office before they closed, so I quickly mixed up a couple tablespoons of baking soda into some hot water, about 3/4 of a cup I reckon, poured it over each of the terminals (they were very tight, btw) and voila~ the car started immediately. No problem since either. Hope this it of trivia helps someone as much as the above info helped me. Cheers!
No Tip but a question. White ash all over the battery but the terminals were fine! Brushed the ash off but don’t know what caused it. Any thoughts? As I said, the terminals were clean.
My car wouldn’t start when I got back from having lunch and I just so happened to still have a coke (diet) with me – worked a charm, I was able to start her up and drive home (where I used the baking soda + hot water method) and she’s been running like a champ since. Thanks for the tips, everyone!
Baking soda did wonders! The terminals were really tight and I’d given up hope, when I read this page and the advises in here. Great website and great advise. Thanks
Pennies are made of 99.4% zinc these days, which is an ideal metal to use as a sacrificial anode, drawing corrosion away from other metals. They are used on ships, bridges and other structures susceptible to corrosion, so I would imagine this would probably actually work.
to set the facts straight about the penny:
Pennies prior to 1982 are bronze compositions 95% copper and 5% zinc/tin (tin was only used until ‘62). This holds true since before 1900 with the exception of 1943 when steel was used instead of copper.
Pure copper hasnt been used for over 150 years.
Since 1982 pennies are copper plated zinc with 97.5% (not 99.4) Zinc. They are still plated with copper so if you use one then dont use a brand new one as it will take longer to become effectivley sacrificial.
Therefore, if you are to use a penny make sure it is dated after 1982 and isnt too glossy or “copper” colored. Dont use any other coins such as nickels,dimes,quarters as they are all still copper alloys.
Nice discussions and good tips. Just did mine today after noticing slow cranking in temps below 5 deg F last several days. Of course better planning in order: a nice warm Fall day! One poster gave a reasonable explanation of the chemistry involved here, i.e. the corrosion is an acidic compound which is neutralized by the basic baking soda (some people drink a bit of the stuff mixed with water to relieve heartburn). That poster did however get his acid-base pH numbers backward: the lower the pH the more acidic, 7 is essentially neutral (e.g. water), and above that is in the “basic” (not basic in the sense we often use it)range. Our stomach secretes HCL aka hydrochloric acid, and a form of this is known as muriatic acid, often used to clean brick when repointing. And on the other side with respect to strength and potential tissue damage are the strong bases like sodium hydroxide or (NaOH)or common household bleach, which is sodium hypochlorite. The bases are also referred to as alkalis (al-kuh-lies). So everyone recommending eye protection is exactly right, and another important thing especially on a day like today when its cold and stuff is running down your face, do not rub face with hands working with corrosives! (I didn’t) After the procedure (I coated the already snugged down cable clamps and posts with vaseline cause I did wonder if the grease would interfere somewhat with conduction) I did believe I got a cleaner sounding start, but tomorrow morning will be the real test. Thanks for everyone’s input.
I used baking soda and quick start on the carburator and bought a can of terminal lubricant so no further corrosion.
Also, you can put a cardboard box over battery in cold country and it will start easier. You have to remove it prior to starting, but worth it for me at least. Now to find Clarabelle.
The fact used to be that the world was flat. Once the terminal clamps and posts are clean and corrosion free, simply put a light coat of good old Vaseline Brand Petroleum Jelly on the inside of the terminal clamp holes, and on the posts. You will never see corosion on there again. I have been doing this for 35 years. Do not put too much on them because naturally, too heavy of a coat, will attrat grease and dirt, but even if you over doing it, check it in a week or so, and just wipe off your excess.
I hope this helps someone,
Ed
Think about what Coke (soda in general) does to your teeth!!!
Great tips, but remember that baking soda cuts the acid ON the cables AS WELL AS IN the battery also. Use care not to neutralize your battery by accident. Keep the soda away from the fill holes on the cells.
white ash response
“No Tip but a question. White ash all over the battery but the terminals were fine! Brushed the ash off but don’t know what caused it. Any thoughts? As I said, the terminals were clean.”
There was enough dirt and moisture for current to leak across the top of the battery. Let this go long enough and sooner or later it will kill your battery. The easiest prevention is to just wipe off the top of your battery whenever you change your oil (or after you get home from having your oil changed).
I have to second the recommendation on the Optima batteries. I have fifteen years of experience using these batteries and there’s nothing that compares. Very reliable and low-maintenance.
hard to start in cold weather
Here is something I learned from my dad (a mechanic) and confirmed when I took automotive technician classes. Whenever the weather is below 30, turn on your car’s headlights for about 2-3 minutes, then turn them off, BEFORE you try starting it. What happens is this: when a battery is cold, it has less available energy, kinda like us when we get cold. By turning on the headlights, we cause the electrons inside the battery to start moving around and rubbing against each other. This causes friction and friction generates heat, thus raising the available energy. I don’t remember the exact ratio but for every degree below 60 degrees F., the battery “lost” a percentage of its’ available energy.
And of course, if the car’s engine oil is cold, it takes a lot more to turn the engine over. Electric dipstick heaters work fairly well, just be sure to remove it before starting the car. Another way of keeping the engine warmer is to place a layer or two of heavy duty aluminum foil over the main engine components topped by cardboard while the engine is still hot from driving. Again, remove before starting. Throwing a tarp or heavy blanket over the car hood helps a lot, too.
How the penny works
If the penny is made of copper (new ones are mostly aluminum) it WILL have an effect. The copper works as a sacrificial metal because it has a different electronegativity. They use this same trick to protect hot water heaters and ships hulls. Another poster said that the lead corrodes more than the copper, quite the opposite is true. For the penny to work, it must be in electrical contact with the thing it is protecting. When the penny is all corroded, the bolts (iron) will start to corrode but not until the copper is consumed. An even better material to use would be magnesium. (that’s what they use in water heaters and on ships) Look up “Cathodic protection” for more info on this phenomenon. Corrosion happens when oxigen in the air combines with the metal (usually the iron bolts or copper wires) and this is helped by the presence of a voltage and maybe even some acid (source of H+). ANY EFFECTIVE TREATMENT INVOLVES KEEPING AIR FROM TOUCHING THE METAL. Paint is a stupid idea, silicon lube or WD40 work but aren’t thick and wash away easily. Use a LOT of grease and you won’t have problems. If you have corrosion, the baking soda ideas will all work. I recommend an overnight soaking of the entire connection (if they’re moulded on) including the first 1/2″ of wire. Use plenty of baking soda and stir it up every once in a while. Never rush out to buy the bolt-on connectors -they’re never as good as the moulede ones because you guessed it, it’s easier for air (the enemy) to get in there. If you have already cut off the connector and don’t have any options left, clean the copper wires. Get any grease and then tin them (all together) in solder. Don’t use plumbers solder because it has ACID in it’s core. USE ROSIN core solder and since there will be a lot of corrosion (by electronics standards) you might need extra rosin -avail at electronics stores ~$6. The solder won’t stick until the copper is both clean and hot. You’ll need a powerful soldering tool because a thick copper wire can dissapate a lot of the heat and carry it away. A propane torch can also be used if you know how to handle it.
Current composition of U.S. pennies
Sorry Ammi, apparently some of the earlier posters have it right. According to “coinflation.com” the current ((June 12,2009) US Mint specifications call for the blanks used to mint the penny to contain: .975% zinc, and .025% copper. So, as of yet at least, our pennies contain no aluminum.
Heh
‘Defacing US Currency is against the law.’
Whoever wrote that must be a robot.
it worked
Coke worked well for my car terminals !
Car Wash
I just today cleaned mine off at the car wash. I just pop the hood and give a quick pass over the engine compartment. No “degreaser” or “engine cleaner”, just the usual Soap setting. Same quickie during Rinse. I used an old towel to dry and wipe things within. It killed the towel, but things looks quite nice under the hood. The battery terminals look great.
Actually, I came here to explore whether I should put Vaseline on the fresh terminal connections. After reading the comments so far, I’m inclined to agree with the enamel paint on clean metal approach. Granted, I’m neither metallurgist, mechanic, chemist, nor numismatist.
don't use coke
the guy at the oil change store told me to use coke which corroded the battery cables-big mistake!
Scrape terminals
I always kept my terminals clean with the felt washers and baking soda/vinegar mix. The other day my hot rod wouldn’t start even with my ‘clean’ terminals. I went to my mechanic and he gave me a device which goes over the terminal and scrapes a thin layer of metal off and another to fit inside the cable metal to do the same. It makes them shiney and clean. He does it with all NEW car batteries, as he said there is a covering them that in time will not allow the juice to flow. I was amazed and would never have believed it as I had the terminals as tight as can be.
response to Mary
Pennies are 100% copper up until the end of 1984.
Now they are 98% zinc with a 2% copper coating.
Do the cables HAVE to be removed?
My car is sitting at a convenience store, I think it won’t crank due to corroded terminals…do I have to remove the cables before I use the baking soda and water paste or can I just apply a bit on each terminal with the cables in place? If I can get it cranked, I will take it to the shop to be cleaned properly. Thanks!!
thanks
Thanks for the tips now I can get my dune buggy going.
The penny trick!
The penny trick WILL work! The only stipulation is that you use a penny dated 1982 – present. In 1982 the newly mented penny was made from 95% Zinc instead of its previous version which was 95% copper, and we know there are few metals more noble than copper that will cause it to corrode. Zinc on the other hand is far less noble than most every metal (other than magnesium). Therefore when the electrochemical properties of the materials are looking for a material to take from it will take from the zinc inside the penny. As a mechanical engineer I have used sacrificial anodes such as blocks of zinc to that corrosion does attacks the zinc before carbon steel and other materials.
But since this discussion forum was for “how to CLEAN your battery terminal” this will meerly protect your battery terminals and connectors. Remember conservation of mass from science class. If you take from one metal you will add to another so the battery may still build up the powdery substance, but at least this will come from the penny and not from the battery or the terminal connectors.
Say What You Will About Using Pennies
I was in the automotive preventative maintenance industry for 14 (1993-2007) years. I can’t tell you HOW many battery terminals I cleaned over the years. I CAN tell you that I clean A LOT of terminals…..with pennies on them. They were corroded just as bad as terminals without pennies.
I used (and still do) a product made specifically to clean corrosion from terminals. It’s made by Permatex. It’s very inexpensive and can be bought at most parts stores. Follow the directions on the can……it’s ridiculously simple.
Sorry for the way off topic here but..
Its only illegal to deface currency if you intend to use it fraudulently as US currency again or sell it, like a collectors edition, especially coins.
You can mutilate the crud out of a penny if you want. Just don’t use it as currency again.
The US Mint talks about it here
http://www.usmint.gov/consumer/index.cfm?flash=yes&action=busguide&sub=Altered
And the statute:
Title 18 United States Code, Section 331
Whoever fraudulently alters, defaces, mutilates, impairs, diminishes,
falsifies, scales, or lightens any of the coins coined at the mints of
the United States, or any foreign coins which are by law made current
or are in actual use or circulation as money within the United States;
or
Whoever fraudulently possesses, passes, utters, publishes, or sells,
or attempts to pass, utter, publish, or sell, or brings into the
United States, any such coin, knowing the same to be altered, defaced,
mutilated, impaired, diminished, falsified, scaled, or lightened -
Shall be fined under this title or imprisoned not more than five
years, or both
I know it's not the right way, but...
If you find yourself without coke or baking soda handy, you can use your pocket knife to carefully “skin” the battery posts until they’re shiny. I had to do it to mine today, and it worked great. Just be careful not to take too much metal off.
How about the bolts?
I just bought a car that had been sitting outside for a few years. Battery was completely dead of course and removing the connectors was a problem as the bolts and nuts were very rusted/corroded. I had to hacksaw the bolts to get them off. The connectors are fine and I’d rather not put on new ones but where can I find replacement bolts of the right type?
Nice mansplaining there, Don
@Don the second commenter:
You just repeated the same information that was in the article, with less detail. You know you can’t count that on your resume as being a published author, right?